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Monday, 12 March 2012

Hood Build - Week 26



I've finally managed to get the time and do some building, as you probably noticed I've not completed all the steps in the Issues including this one, I want to keep the model on the board for as long as possible which means only working on the top part of the ship, this Issue delivers the upper planking plus you need to use x6 planks from Issue 24. I have also secured the main decks to the hull for my own needs to avoid any movement while planking the lower part of the ship.




A nice load of planks with this issue, plus you need another 6 planks from Issue 24 (these are longer)

As I have already mentioned I 've jumped a few step in the magazine and moved straight to step 9 (12 steps), adding 3 cut planks between frames (ribs) 26a and 8b, the picture show those planks cut and pre-drilled (for nails to hold plank while it dry's), work both side of the ship (Port & Starboard)

Working down the hull adding 3 planks to frames 8 & 3b, checking all the time they butt up nice and tight. I'll take the nails out and sand to finish it off, being careful not to sand too close to the notch/lip that has been created.

The finished result after taking the nails out and a light sand, I'm quite happy with the result. There is a last plank that needs fitting and that's from frame 11b to 37, in fact it says not to trim to size but let it over hang, I have decided to leave this off for the time being, it's only 1 plank and far better to see how this over hang works.

This is where I'm doing my own thing (bashing if you like) by securing the deck/s to the hull, I've read some people are tempted to glue this down and other obviously are making there model a R/C, but as I have no intention the gluing would I think cause many problems, the next best option is to screw it down, this serves 2 problems, the first being Issue 27.
We are asked to plank right up to and butt under this deck, if like my model the deck is not sitting flush with the frames then adding these planks means we could not be sure when we come to secure the deck that those planks are at the correct height.
So as the picture show's I've cut some scrap wood and chosen where I want to screw the deck down, glued them in place and let them dry fully.

I laid the deck in place (still on the build board) and drilled 4 holes (as shown in the picture) then countersunk them. The other reason for doing this is I can take the model from the build board and continue planking the lower half of the hull in confidence (fingers crossed) that the long hull will not move or misshape.

This will not interferer with any of the build and even when we are safe to fully secure the decks then these screws will help hold it down while the glue dry's, it saves adding  weight to hold it down...by then we may have some more superstructure in place.

Taken from the build board here with the decking secured and ready for the lower planking to continue.

In Issue 27 we will be asked to add a final plank that will need to be butted up under the deck, with the deck now secured in the correct level I can be sure I don't add to much planking that will effect how the deck sit. I'm guessing the second planking will cover the edge of the ply deck?

NOTES:
I've just received some ply from a company to help me better replace the aft (Quarterdeck) decking from Issue 20, I need this completed rather than wait and wonder if I'll ever see it. I'll make a separate post for this and mention (name drop) the company and kind folk who have help me with some templates.

Where I've missed steps in previous Issues regarding the lower planking I wont do a step by step as I'm sure we all know what goes where but only highlight some areas where perhaps more tapering is needed. But I will add these to the Issue/week it concern.

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