Join or have a look at the NEW!! Building The Hood Forum
Sunday, 8 July 2012
Hood Build - Week 40/42
Now up-to 30% built?.... doesn't seem it.
3 issues here are supplied with more P/E, wooden parts and parts to be used later..more of that later.
As well as following the magazines instruction Ive side stepped a few things and added my own parts and ideas, not essential but as you will see some parts that are glued to the hull (P/E) could knock very easy, I've covered the possibility only. I've also considered the painting, the deck we are working on is being added all the time and I think it would be wise to consider painting at least some areas. A visit to Halfords and some test painting follows....
pieces, they need to be at this angle, not flat. The instructions are very vague once again but you need to sand these parts to match the angle of the hull/deck 62.
Parts supplied in Issue 42, the wood is obvious really but the rod? my guess again the Hawser Reels.
(top left & right) before gluing anything the sanding has to be done, the angle can be seen here, always offer up the part to be added here (166) and add the whole deck back on the hull to see how it looks. (bottom left & right) nothing is glued here but just laid over, this at least gives you an idea of what needs to be achieved.
(top left) as mentioned earlier on about filling the gaps, I decided (artistic licence) that filler/putty would be far to messy, instead as an 'ex' litho printer I have loads of metal plates, these are very thin and fold very easy. this picture show exactly my concerns about things getting knocked...I did knock the original part and tried to re-bend it back to shape, not very good. After measuring the metal plat was cut with the added lip to fold around the corner..this looks far better and cleaner than putty (IMHO) (top right) with this in mind I cut some corner sections out of the metal plate, this plate is very very thin and can bend easy..but if you have loads of it then take your time. (bottom left) the result, clean and crisp, not 'historic'? yep! but who will even ask that question once the roof's been added, personally I think it works brilliantly. (bottom right) with some ideas flowing I decided to cover the wood still showing with more metal plate, once it's painted and parts 165 are added you will never know, also the paint adheres to the plate better than bare wood.
(top left) talking of paint, I think it was time to get serious about paint, as more and more parts are being added to the decking it will become hard to gain access to paint, I thought of the idea of getting the Halfords spray cans and 'decant' the paint but they had the Grey Primer in a tin, far cleaner to use this and just thin it out, the same can be said for the Red Oxide primer, my personal choice to the lower hull. (top right) I also picked up some Cellulose Thinner's in Halfords and as shown here I already had some Zero paints Airbrush Cleaner, I'll use this only for cleaning the parts to be painted.
(bottom left) After some thought I decided to go down the White Ensign Colourcoats paints route, you can see some excellent information regarding this on the HMS Association web site link here - Paint Schemes 1920 - 1941 As I'm sure we are all making the 1941 model the paint to use is AP507B (WEM code: RN02) I had a conversation with John Snyder of WEM (USA) he advised me on 8 tins for a 1:200 scale model, along with 3 tins of AP507A for the steel decks (WEM code: RN01) it was suggested a Cellulose thinners would be fine. The total cost for the WEM Colourcoats was just over £25. I have decided not to buy the WEM anti-fouling red as I think the Halfords primer is just as good..at least for my needs.
(bottom right) I wanted to test not only my Airbrush (bought 2 years ago) but the primers of a few different surfaces. Split into 2 sections, one for grey and one for red primer. After these have dried I intend to test the WEM paints over the primer. The various material I've used are from left to right in the picture - the magazine supplied P/E, thin plasticard, metal litho plate, and 2 various thickness of off cut wood from the magazine (these where sealed prior to painting).
(top left) Using the Airbrush Cleaner and an ear bud I just carefully cleaned the scrap P/E. (top right) Using a syringe measure what you think you'll need into a mixing pot. (bottom left) adding the thinners again make a mental note of what you have used, this was all a quick test for me but x3 of primer out of the tin to 4 thinners, it was still a little thick, your after a 'milky' constancy. (bottom right) As with anything airbrushing you will need to do lots of thin coats, don't be tempted to spray too much on to quick. I did the same mix for the grey primer.
(top left) just to give you an idea of the equipment I'm using, the compressor is a Piston-type oil-less compressor, with a max psi of 87 (that's what it says on the box) there are 2 switches, one for constantly on and the other that stop when the cylinder is full. (top right) My airbrush is a Spraymaster ABR 1005, and I'm really happy with it, the nozzle supplied is 0.3mm plus it has 3 different sizes cups (2cc, 5cc and 13cc) (bottom left & right) Ive only shown 3 materials after spraying with the thinned primmer as this will be the most common material to be painted. The wood was covered OK but not brilliant, it still looks like wood.
(top) the Red Oxide Halfords primer sprayed onto P/E, I rubbed it to see how far it would go before it came away from the P/E, it took some time and after this small test I'm convinced the paint and thinners work well.
(bottom) I intend to test the WEM paints over both the red and grey primer, at least to see how different the grey primer is compared to AP507B, and to find out if AP507B changes its shade if sprayed over the red oxide primer.
As a footnote I have bought and changed my 0.3mm nozzle & needle for a 0.5mm nozzle & needle, I've yet to test spray, but I'm sure it will be fine.
I do have Issue 43 and 44 but will be holding for a while to decided how I will approach the 'stupid' railings that have been supplied with the P/E panel, I am amazed at this early stage they do things like that.